Smoking may have fallen out of favour as a lifestyle choice, but it appears to be making an unexpected comeback as a fashion accessory. From glossy magazine covers and music videos to carefully curated Instagram posts, cigarettes are increasingly appearing as styling props in celebrity imagery, prompting criticism that the habit is being glamorised for a new generation.
At the centre of the debate are Hailey Bieber, Kylie Jenner and Addison Rae, who have each faced scrutiny after featuring cigarettes in recent fashion editorials or social media posts. Critics have labelled the growing trend 'performative smoking', arguing that cigarettes are being used less as expressions of personal habit and more as visual shorthand for rebellion, confidence and effortless cool.
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Celebrities Face Backlash Over Smoking Imagery
The controversy has gathered pace in recent months as several high-profile stars have incorporated cigarettes into their public image.
Hailey Bieber drew attention after posing with a cigarette for the cover of Interview magazine in April, where the accompanying headline declared: 'Nobody says no to Hailey Bieber.' While the editorial was praised for its striking fashion direction, others questioned whether the imagery unnecessarily romanticised smoking.
Kylie Jenner also fuelled discussion after posting photographs on Instagram featuring a cigarette between her lips. Although the reality star did not explain the images, critics accused her of using smoking as an aesthetic rather than depicting real-life behaviour.
Meanwhile, Addison Rae sparked debate in the music video for Aquamarine, where she appeared smoking two cigarettes simultaneously. The dramatic visual quickly became one of the video's most talked-about moments, with viewers divided over whether it was artistic expression or an attempt to revive an outdated fashion trope.
Importantly, none of these appearances confirms that the celebrities smoke in their personal lives. Instead, the criticism centres on the deliberate use of cigarettes as part of highly stylised fashion imagery.
What is 'Performative Smoking'?
The phrase 'performative smoking' has emerged across social media to describe celebrities who appear to use cigarettes primarily as fashion props rather than as reflections of genuine smoking habits.
Unlike candid photographs from previous decades, today's celebrity images are typically carefully planned, professionally styled and designed to generate conversation online. For critics, that distinction matters.
Social media users have described the trend as 'performative', 'trying too hard' and 'tone-deaf', arguing that smoking has become another accessory intended to project a rebellious image rather than a spontaneous moment captured by photographers.
Fashion's Complicated Relationship with Cigarettes
Smoking has long occupied an uneasy place within fashion.
Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, editorial photography frequently featured cigarettes as symbols of glamour, independence and nonconformity. Supermodels, including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, became closely associated with the aesthetic, while countless runway campaigns embraced the image of effortless cool.
Over the past two decades, however, the industry largely shifted towards promoting wellness, clean beauty and healthier lifestyles, mirroring changing public attitudes towards tobacco.
The recent return of cigarette imagery therefore feels striking to many observers, particularly as fashion increasingly champions sustainability, wellbeing and authenticity.
Charli XCX and Madonna Add Fuel to the Conversation
The debate intensified after Charli XCX and Madonna were photographed sharing Djarum Black clove cigarettes while attending the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris.
The pair appeared together following a playful public exchange over Charli's lyrics claiming 'the dancefloor is dead', with Madonna responding on Instagram: 'If your dancefloor feels dead, maybe you're playing the wrong music.'
Although the appearance appeared to mark the end of their light-hearted disagreement, attention quickly shifted to the cigarettes themselves. Online reactions ranged from amusement to criticism, with some describing the images as staged and others questioning the message, particularly given Madonna's previous anti-smoking stance.
@carasbrasil Aa cantoras @charli_xcx, @madonna e o ator @connorstorrieofficial no desfile da Saint Laurent (@ysl) de @anthonyvaccarello. 🎥: @hey_imlara cia @wwd
♬ som original - CARAS BRASIL
Why Critics Believe The Trend Matters
The backlash extends beyond celebrity styling choices.
Between them, Hailey Bieber, Kylie Jenner and Addison Rae reach hundreds of millions of followers, many of whom are teenagers and young adults. Public health experts have long warned that repeated exposure to glamorous smoking imagery can help normalise tobacco use, even when cigarettes are presented purely as fashion accessories.
Supporters argue that fashion has always embraced provocative imagery and that audiences are capable of separating editorial creativity from lifestyle endorsement. Others counter that influential public figures have a responsibility to consider the wider impact of the images they share.
@jnnrkhy see you in france kylie!!! #kyliejenner #fyp #viral ♬ Les (Instrumental Slowed) - aurelia & dopuu
Is This Fashion's Next Revival—or a Step Backwards?
As vintage aesthetics continue influencing modern fashion, some commentators believe cigarettes have become another nostalgic symbol borrowed from previous decades.
Unlike oversized tailoring or archival designer pieces, however, smoking carries significant public health associations that make its return more contentious than most retro trends.
Whether 'performative smoking' proves to be a passing visual fad or develops into a broader celebrity fashion movement remains to be seen. What is already clear is that audiences are questioning not only the imagery itself but also the authenticity behind it.
For many fashion followers, genuine confidence no longer comes from recreating the aesthetics of the past. Instead, the strongest style statements are increasingly those that feel original, responsible and true to the person wearing them.
