Haus of Mclees brought a haunting vision of rebirth to the London Fashion Week, unveiling a collection of barely-there silhouettes, sculptural designs and intricate embellishments exploring the vulnerability of the human body and the darkness that can precede a new beginning.
Founded by Swiss and Native American designer Mclees Mantegazza, the fashion house presented 'RENATUS' on Saturday, 19 September 2026. Meaning 'reborn' in Latin, the collection draws on spirituality, personal transformation and Mantegazza's Indigenous heritage to explore the relationship between fashion, identity and renewal.
Exposed silhouettes and sculptural forms place the body at the centre of the collection, while a palette of black, white, silver and gold evokes a passage from darkness into light.
The collection also explores the idea that rebirth requires surrender, with personal transformation sometimes beginning with the decision to leave something behind.
Barely-There Designs and Rebirth
'RENATUS' began with a book Mantegazza created during her master's degree, exploring the experience of losing oneself to darkness before confronting the most vulnerable version of the self. That concept became the foundation for a collection translating emotional and spiritual vulnerability into fashion.
Rather than concealing the body, exposed silhouettes and sculptural shapes reveal it, while intricate hand-beading, embellished mesh, embroidery, crystals and semi-precious stones bring texture and detail to the designs.
Recycled materials and silk also feature in the collection, contributing to its combination of craftsmanship and dramatic visual expression. The brand's wider sustainability practices include the use of recycled and repurposed materials, although the precise sourcing of individual 'RENATUS' garments has not been independently established.
Angelic and religious imagery appears alongside references to Mother Nature, giving the collection a spiritual dimension. A recurring spiral serves as a symbol of continuity and return, reinforcing its exploration of transformation.
Heritage and Creative Vision
The collection's message is also shaped by Mantegazza's Native American heritage.
According to the designer's biography, her connection to traditional beadwork began during time spent with her grandfather on the Wind River Reservation, where she was introduced to the craft that would become central to her approach to fashion.
That influence is reflected in the house's intricate embellishments and one-of-a-kind pieces, which combine heritage craftsmanship with references to music, performance and festival culture.
For 'RENATUS', death is framed as part of a continuing process of change, a theme reflected in the collection's contrast between exposed forms, spiritual imagery and detailed adornment.
Haus of Mclees describes itself as a Native American-founded label committed to Indigenous visibility and respectful representation.
From Notting Hill to the World
Haus of Mclees says it has grown from a one-woman operation into a small atelier in London's Notting Hill in just two years, with a team of designers and artisans working alongside Mantegazza to produce its detailed pieces.
According to the brand, collections are produced in limited quantities, with many garments made to order. Recycled, repurposed and second-hand materials are used wherever possible, while most pieces are handcrafted by the atelier's team.
The brand also offers custom orders, made-to-order pieces and inclusive sizing, with the aim of accommodating different bodies and personal expressions.
Haus of Mclees has presented at Miami Swim Week and London Fashion Week, and says its work has featured in Forbes and Vanity Fair. The brand has also identified artists and performers including Shakira, Bombay Mami, Natasha Diggs and Naïka as wearers of its designs.
Selected jewellery from Lady Pill Art, created in collaboration with Taylor Papadakis, extends 'RENATUS' beyond clothing.
Looking ahead, Haus of Mclees says it plans to present its designs during the Paris Fashion Week in October 2026 before relocating to Miami in January 2027. According to the brand, the proposed move is expected to bring expanded collections, new ready-to-wear offerings and a major menswear line, while bespoke couture and custom commissions will continue.
Despite its planned expansion, Mantegazza intends to preserve the intimacy and individuality of the atelier.
