Jonathan Anderson loosened some of Dior's most recognisable silhouettes for spring/summer 2027, pairing structured tailoring with sheer fabrics, exposed bras and asymmetrical details at Paris Fashion Week.
Dior presented the 65-look collection on 29 September on a white runway built over the octagonal basin in Paris's Tuileries Garden, nearly one year after Anderson's womenswear debut for the French fashion house.
Models wore sheer feathered skirts, finely pleated dresses, roomy double-breasted jackets and metallic snakeskin-effect trousers. Open jackets exposed bras underneath, while other looks featured partially buttoned shirts and pyjama-inspired details.
Jennifer Lawrence, Rosalía, Anya Taylor-Joy, Rihanna and Cynthia Erivo were among the guests watching the collection.
Discover the new collection. https://t.co/quXbfBYc5h
— Dior (@Dior) September 29, 2026
Dior's Famous Silhouette Gets Lighter
Dior has been associated with structured silhouettes since Christian Dior introduced the New Look in 1947.
The original silhouette emphasised rounded shoulders, a narrow waist and full skirts. The Bar jacket, introduced in Dior's first collection, became one of the house's defining designs. Anderson revisited those references for spring/summer 2027 but altered their construction and proportions.
Bar jackets appeared in softer forms, while houndstooth — another longstanding Dior reference — was rendered in lighter materials. Tailored jackets were paired with sheer skirts and exposed lingerie. The collection also included lace, feathered fabrics, checks, stripes and impressionist-style floral prints.
Metallic snakeskin-effect trousers appeared in silver and green, providing a contrast to pastel pinks, powder blues and other softer shades. Anderson's show notes asked how light a dress could become. That approach extended to familiar Dior pieces, with draping and less rigid construction replacing some of the precise structure historically associated with the house.
Chinese Wenwan Walnuts Inspire Anderson
Guests received two Chinese wenwan walnuts with their invitations to the show.
The walnuts are traditionally rolled in the hands repeatedly, gradually developing a smoother surface and patina. 'What looks symmetrical in nature is often not quite,' the show notes said.
Uneven draping and deliberately irregular shapes appeared throughout the collection. The walnuts also reflected Anderson's focus on nature and the effects of time and touch.
Individual looks featured hand-cut petals and Murano glass buttons alongside lace, pleating and feathered details.
Dior's Archive Remains on the Runway
Anderson also returned to pieces from Dior's archive.
The house's 1952 La Cigale dress was revisited in pink pleated tulle, while the Saddle bag, associated with John Galliano's tenure at Dior, also returned. Bar jackets and houndstooth provided further links to the house's earlier collections.
Anderson joined Dior in 2025 after more than a decade as creative director of Loewe. Anderson was initially appointed to lead Dior menswear in April 2025 before taking responsibility for womenswear and haute couture in June.
The move made Anderson responsible for Dior's men's, women's and haute couture collections. His spring/summer 2027 presentation came nearly one year after his first Dior womenswear show.
Jennifer Lawrence and Rihanna Among Dior's Front-Row Guests
Dior's latest collection drew several high-profile guests at Paris Fashion Week.
Lawrence attended in a baby-blue Dior slip dress with white lace detailing, while Rihanna was also among the front-row guests. Rosalía, Taylor-Joy and Erivo were also among those watching Anderson's latest collection.
On the runway, structured jackets appeared alongside softer dresses and sheer fabrics. The spring/summer 2027 collection featured the Bar jacket, houndstooth and other house references alongside sheer fabrics, asymmetrical details and looser tailoring.
Nearly eight decades after Dior's New Look established some of the house's best-known womenswear codes, Anderson's latest collection revisited them through lighter fabrics, looser tailoring and less rigid silhouettes.
