Matthieu Blazy
Matthieu Blazy’s first Chanel collection sets a new standard for modern couture. Matthieu Blazy/Instagram

Matthieu Blazy has officially arrived at the helm of Chanel haute couture, and he made his debut an instant talking point in Paris. With the Spring/Summer 2026 Haute Couture collection, his approach blends elegance with subtle innovation, weaving unexpected textures and fluid silhouettes that feel both contemporary and timeless.

Blazy not only showcased his signature sense of modernity and lightness, but he also positioned himself within a broader wave of creative director shake‑ups that are transforming luxury fashion this season.

The Era of the Creative Director Debut

Blazy's debut is part of a striking trend across the industry. Over the past year, numerous heritage houses have appointed new creative directors, each tasked with balancing iconic brand DNA against their own personal style. From Jonathan Anderson's sculptural and floral-led couture at Dior to Demna's bold vision now shaping Gucci, this is a period where designers are increasingly seen as storytellers rather than simply stewards of tradition.

The stakes are high. Audiences and critics scrutinise how each new director translates the house's historic codes while leaving their own mark, which is a challenge Blazy clearly relished.

Blazy's Debut Brings Poetic Couture Alive

Chanel presented its Spring/Summer 2026 haute couture collection on 27 January at the Grand Palais in Paris as part of Paris Haute Couture Week. It's one of the most anticipated runway moments of the fashion calendar.

For Chanel, Blazy's approach was one of poetic levity. The Grand Palais was completely transformed into a dreamlike garden filled with giant pastel‑pink mushrooms, rosé‑hued willow trees and whimsical foliage, evoking a mood that blended fantasy with couture precision.

Blazy's collection embraced lightness and flight as central motifs. Flowing silk mousseline, feather‑inspired embroidery, and airy silhouettes suggested movement and freedom, with women imagined as birds in flight. This is the theme he amplified in his show notes, referencing the elegance of bird life woven into couture.

The designs often softened classic Chanel codes. While the iconic suit appeared, it was re‑interpreted in transparent fabrics and liquid cuts that felt weightless.

This interplay between tradition and innovation reflects a broader trend in fashion. Apparently, new creative directors are not erasing house identities but translating them through their own lens, adding fresh relevance for today's luxury consumer.

Who's Sitting Front Row at Chanel?

The audience reflected the cultural importance of the moment. A‑list celebrities and influential figures filled the front row, showcasing broad excitement for Blazy's vision:

Nicole Kidman, recently named a Chanel ambassador, appeared in a dramatic black silk dress with monochromatic feather details, seated beside Anna Wintour. Dua Lipa attended in a vibrant look that echoed the collection's bright energy.

Other notable front‑row guests included Penélope Cruz, A$AP Rocky, Margaret Qualley, Gracie Abrams, and Tilda Swinton, according to Harper's Bazaar.

New Vision Breathes Life Into Chanel

In a fashion landscape dominated by director transitions, Blazy's show represents a blueprint for how new leadership can reinvigorate a heritage house. He respected Chanel's DNA while introducing his own motifs — movement, transparency, and narrative detail — signaling that haute couture is evolving beyond spectacle to personal expression.

For fashion lovers watching this era of change, the takeaway is clear: Creative directors are no longer just designers as they are narrative architects. And in Blazy's hands, Chanel has never looked lighter, fresher, or more alive.