Pieter Mulier, the Belgian designer credited with revitalising the Parisian fashion house Alaïa, is stepping down as its creative director after five influential years. His final collection is expected to debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2026, after which his departure will take effect.
Mulier's tenure was defined by balancing the maison's heritage of sculptural tailoring and body-conscious silhouettes with a contemporary vision that resonated with a younger, global audience. Under his guidance, Alaïa strengthened its standing in haute couture while expanding its appeal among red-carpet celebrities and style-conscious consumers.
During his leadership, Mulier emphasised craftsmanship, structural innovation, and understated glamour, maintaining the precision and elegance on which Azzedine Alaïa built his reputation. His designs were simultaneously modern and timeless, appealing to loyal clients while attracting a new generation of high-profile wearers. Stars such as Zendaya, Kaia Gerber, and Rihanna embraced his creations at major film premieres, award shows, and cultural events, cementing Alaïa's relevance in contemporary fashion.
A New Era at a Storied Maison
Founded in 1980 by Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaïa, the maison earned acclaim for its meticulous tailoring, sculptural silhouettes, and discreet luxury. Following Alaïa's death in 2017, the house operated without a dedicated creative director until Mulier's appointment in 2021.
Having collaborated with Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein, Mulier was well-placed to respect the brand's legacy while guiding its modern evolution. His blend of architectural precision and sensual detailing earned industry praise and loyal celebrity clients.
Innovation and Celebrity Appeal
Mulier focused on refined forms, innovative fabrics, and wearable elegance. Unlike designers who rely heavily on branding or archival recycling, he emphasised subtle drama and sculptural perfection. Signature pieces, including ballet flats and the elongated Le Teckel bag, became highly sought-after by collectors and fashion insiders.
Red-carpet appearances amplified Alaïa's visibility. From film premieres to the Super Bowl Halftime Show, Mulier's designs elevated the house without compromising its values of elegance and structure. At the 2025 CFDA Awards, Naomi Campbell, a long-time friend and ambassador, presented him with the International Designer of the Year Award, recognising his transformative impact.
Official Statement and Future Speculation
Alaïa confirmed Mulier's departure, with CEO Myriam Serrano stating: 'We sincerely thank Pieter for his vision and commitment, writing an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the Maison.' She credited him with strengthening the brand's global recognition and contemporary relevance.
No successor has been named, and the in-house studio will maintain creative continuity until a new creative director is appointed. Industry rumours suggest Mulier may take a role at Versace, though nothing is confirmed.
Legacy of Craft and Cultural Impact
Mulier's influence goes beyond commercial success. He maintained Alaïa's commitment to craftsmanship while responding to contemporary cultural currents. His collections balanced architectural silhouettes with sensual detailing, producing designs that were both sophisticated and expressive.
Under his leadership, the maison expanded its retail presence and deepened its relevance with younger audiences without diluting its identity, ensuring Alaïa remained a culturally resonant and coveted brand.
End of an Era, Beginning of a New One
As Mulier prepares to unveil his final Spring–Summer 2026 collection in March, the fashion world watches both the closing of a definitive era for Alaïa and the potential next act for one of the industry's most admired designers. Whether he joins another historic house or forges a new path, his influence on contemporary couture and luxury ready-to-wear will endure.
Beyond commercial success, Mulier leaves a legacy of elevated craftsmanship, timeless silhouettes, and a renewed global relevance for Alaïa. He demonstrated that respecting a maison's heritage while embracing modernity can reinvigorate even the most established luxury brands. As the fashion house looks ahead, the foundation he built ensures that Alaïa will continue to be celebrated for its sculptural elegance, sartorial innovation, and cultural resonance for years to come.
