Moschino is entering a new chapter, and its incoming creative directors are making it clear that they do not want to simply repeat the fashion house's most recognisable jokes. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the founders of Italian label Sunnei, were appointed creative directors of Moschino in June 2026. Their first collection for the house is being presented during Milan Fashion Week in September, marking the beginning of their new creative direction.
Rather than treating Moschino's famous archive as a collection of ready-made references, the pair say they have been studying what made founder Franco Moschino's approach distinctive and how those ideas can be translated into something new.
A New Direction for Moschino
Messina and Rizzo took over after Adrian Appiolaza's tenure at the Italian fashion house. Before joining Moschino, the pair spent 12 years developing Sunnei, a label known for experimental presentations and unconventional approaches to the traditional fashion system.
Their approach to Moschino is centred on understanding rather than copying. Speaking to Vogue, the designers explained that they have been carefully examining why Moschino worked as a fashion brand in the first place. They said they do not want to reproduce Franco Moschino's designs literally, but instead carry forward his spirit and way of thinking.
They Are Looking Beyond the Smiley Face
Franco Moschino became known for using humour, wordplay and unexpected references to challenge the conventions of fashion. His designs often turned familiar luxury codes into playful commentary.
For Messina and Rizzo, however, that legacy goes much deeper than the smiley faces, slogans and deliberately provocative accessories that are often associated with the brand. The designers see Moschino as an intelligent thinker as well as an irreverent designer. They are particularly interested in the ideas behind his work and the way he used clothing to question the fashion industry itself.
The pair have been examining the construction and tailoring of historic Moschino pieces, with the physical archive split between Milan and Cattolica. They said seeing the garments in person has helped them appreciate the technical quality behind some of the house's most famous designs.
'Aristocrats on Mars'
One of the most revealing descriptions of their vision is their phrase 'aristocrat on Mars'. Messina and Rizzo use the expression to describe the kind of Moschino wearer they have in mind: someone with the freedom to dress according to their own taste while expecting a high level of quality.
For the designers, this means bringing together fantasy and sophistication rather than choosing between them. They also want Moschino to operate firmly within the language of luxury, with conceptual ideas supported by strong craftsmanship.
From Sunnei to Moschino
The designers' background at Sunnei is also central to understanding what they bring to Moschino. Messina and Rizzo founded Sunnei and spent more than a decade experimenting with the way fashion could be presented. Their shows sometimes involved unusual audience participation and performance elements, making the presentation itself part of the creative work.
The two have brought that interest in performance into their plans for Moschino. For their first show, the designers are working without a stylist, saying that they want the ideas to be translated directly through the team they have assembled. They have described the collection as a process in which the clothing itself is where the concept takes shape. It is a continuation of the experimental approach that characterised much of their work at Sunnei, but within the considerably larger framework of an established Italian fashion house.
Why Moschino's Show Won't Be Livestreamed
Perhaps one of the clearest signs of their approach is their decision not to livestream their first Moschino show on social media. The decision comes from their belief that fashion has become overloaded with digital content and constant online communication.
Rather than trying to maximise every possible moment of digital visibility, they want to put greater emphasis on physical experiences and direct encounters. The designers have described this as a form of 'grounding', moving some of the focus away from constant digital broadcasting and back towards the real-world experience of fashion.
Beauty Instead of Constant Provocation
Another important part of Messina and Rizzo's vision is their changing relationship with provocation. The pair told Vogue that contemporary fashion can feel increasingly crowded, with numerous voices competing for attention. Against that backdrop, they believe beauty itself can become a powerful statement.
Their stated aim is not to make Moschino less distinctive, but to avoid forcing every collection or idea into a formula designed simply to appear 'cool'. Instead, they want to concentrate on creating clothing that combines strong ideas with beauty and quality.
What Comes Next for Moschino?
Messina and Rizzo's appointment represents a significant new phase for Moschino, but their vision is still in its early stages. Their official appointment in June 2026 described the duo's role as bringing a contemporary creative vision and cultural sensitivity to the house while building on Franco Moschino's legacy.
Their comments to Vogue suggest that this will not mean abandoning the founder's irreverence. Instead, they are attempting to reinterpret the thinking behind it for a fashion industry that looks very different from the one Franco Moschino challenged during the 1980s and 1990s.
