Fashion brands often use provocative advertising to attract attention, though campaigns that spark widespread discussion may also create reputational risks. Some brands benefit from debate, while others end up facing criticism that overshadows their products.
Examples such as Sydney Sweeney's American Eagle campaign, Reformation's collaboration with Olivia Jade Giannulli, and Dolce & Gabbana's 2018 campaign show that controversy can generate publicity–and how quickly this strategy can become a liability.
The Business of Controversy
Controversy can expose a brand to audiences who might otherwise overlook its advertising. However, getting attention does not always lead to more sales or long-term goodwill. Derek Rucker, a marketing professor at Northwestern University's Kellogg School of Management, notes, 'People will sometimes ask, "But isn't any publicity good publicity?". The answer to that is definitively no.'
A campaign may attract one group but alienate another, and managing backlash can outweigh any publicity benefits. Brands must assess whether they can convert discussion into product interest without losing customer trust.
Sydney Sweeney's Great Jeans
American Eagle's 2025 campaign featuring Sydney Sweeney sparked debate over its tagline, 'Sydney Sweeney Has Great Jeans', a play on the words 'jeans' and 'genes'. In one ad, Sweeney explains how genes affect traits such as hair and eye colour, then states, 'My genes are blue'. A male narrator adds, 'Sydney Sweeney has great jeans'.
Some critics argued that highlighting Sweeney's blonde hair, blue eyes, and white identity evoked eugenicist ideas. Others objected to the campaign's sexualised presentation. However, these responses reflect public interpretation rather than the brand's intent.
American Eagle announced that 100% of the purchase price of its limited-edition 'Sydney Jean' would be donated to Crisis Text Line, a nonprofit providing free, confidential mental health support. Its share price further rose following the campaign's launch, although this can be completely unrelated to the collaboration.
Olivia Jade's Campus Comeback
Reformation's 2026 autumn 'Good Sport' campaign, featuring influencer Olivia Jade Giannulli, attracted attention due to her involvement in the US college admissions scandal. Her parents, actor Lori Loughlin and designer Mossimo Giannulli, pleaded guilty to federal charges connected to the college admissions scandal. The scheme involved falsely presenting their daughters as rowing recruits to secure their admission to the University of Southern California.
The Reformation featured Giannulli in a sweatshirt labelled 'College', accompanied by the line, 'We brought her back to campus for a lesson in dressing for sport'. Although the wording seemed to reference the scandal, the brand has not confirmed this. Social media responses ranged from praise for the humour to criticism for insensitivity.
Net proceeds from the sweatshirt were designated for YES Scholars, a nonprofit supporting students from under-resourced communities.
Olivia Jade is going full fall prep for Reformation. The new “Good Sport” campaign mixes recycled cashmere, collegiate graphics and polished separates — plus one crewneck that gives back.
— The Cool Hour (@TheCoolHour) October 12, 2026
🔗 https://t.co/cbtYQ7zQH3 pic.twitter.com/uombnixWuL
When Backlash Hurts Business
Dolce & Gabbana's 2018 advertising campaign in China was criticised for racial stereotyping. Promotional videos for a Shanghai fashion show showed a Chinese model trying to eat Italian dishes with chopsticks, while a Mandarin narrator gave instructions that many viewers found patronising.
The brand removed the videos, but the controversy grew after screenshots of alleged messages from co-founder Stefano Gabbana containing offensive remarks about China appeared. Gabbana and the brand claimed their respective Instagram accounts had been hacked.
Hundreds of models and celebrities withdrew from the show, resulting in its cancellation. Major Chinese retailers also removed or suspended the brand's products. The founders later apologised, expressed respect for China, and asked for forgiveness.
Model Zuo Ye, who appeared in the videos, stated that the backlash left her feeling ashamed and concerned about her career. She also noted that she had not seen the final video before its release.
When Imagery Goes Wrong
In 2026, Converse was criticised for releasing images of K-pop star Karina that some viewers believed evoked Ku Klux Klan and lynching imagery. Critics pointed to a triangular spotlight on her white skirt and shoes hanging from a tree.
These comparisons reflect viewers' interpretations rather than Converse's intent. The company removed the images and issued an apology: 'We're sorry. We understand why this image is deeply upsetting and recognise that we got this wrong'.
Civil rights attorney Lee Merritt questioned how the images passed the company's review process, highlighting the scrutiny brands face regarding internal safeguards and public accountability.
🚨🇺🇸 | ENFERMA MENTAL: Se viraliza el desquiciado video grabado por una afroamericana mientras se largaba a llorar por el "racismo" de la publicidad lanzada por Converse, tras viralizarse una supuesta "referencia" al Ku Klux Klan por la forma triangular blanca creada por la… pic.twitter.com/zfDNLBDQEb
— La Derecha Diario (@laderechadiario) September 21, 2026
The Cost of Publicity
Rucker further noted that brands must consider the consequences when public reaction differs from expectations. While provocative advertising can spark discussion, companies should weigh reputational and financial risks.
'Good brands have checks and balances,' he said. 'When something goes wrong, what do you do? Explain to the consumer what happened. Take accountability and get rid of it as quickly as you can.'
These examples show that while controversy can maintain public attention, it may also alienate customers, disrupt operations, and increase scrutiny of campaign participants. The effectiveness of publicity as a commercial strategy depends on the specific context and audience response.
