Although fashion's environmental impact is often measured by emissions, water use, and waste, a new Oxford report emphasises its substantial farmland use.
The textile industry produces an estimated two to eight per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. It uses the equivalent of 86 million Olympic-sized swimming pools of water each year, according to the UN Environment Programme.
Oxford researchers estimate that fashion affects 1.45 billion hectares of farmland, roughly 30% of the world's total, when leather and wool are counted alongside textile crops.
The estimate includes land used to produce fashion materials, rather than what the industry directly occupies. Brand sourcing decisions drive part of this impact.
Fashion's Land Use
Oxford's Smith School of Enterprise and the Environment and DIRT Charity have updated earlier estimates that mostly focused on textile crops such as cotton, flax, and hemp.
Leather production uses 876 million hectares of land, while wool uses 528.4 million. Cotton occupies 34.7 million hectares, linen and hemp 5.9 million, and silk 2.3 million.
Land used for leather and wool also supports meat and dairy production.
'Once leather and wool are counted alongside textile crops, roughly a third of the world's agricultural land is linked to what this industry buys,' Sam Fankhauser, director of the Oxford Smith School of Enterprise and the Environment, said.
'That is the scale of the opportunity, and our review suggests it is currently underestimated. A brand changing how it sources is changing how land is farmed.'
When Materials Vary
However, the report also found that the same material can have different environmental impacts based on its production methods, processing, and energy sources.
For example, the report cites leather life-cycle assessments that range from 8.5 to 151.9 kg CO₂e per square metre.
Mycelium – the root-like structure of fungi – is being developed as a leather alternative for the fashion industry. According to the report, two mycelium-based materials have emissions ranging from 2.76 to 57.15 kg CO₂e per square metre. The higher values come from coal-heavy electricity.
Viscose, which is a widely used clothing fibre, has estimated emissions of 0.20 to 8.30 tonnes of CO₂e per tonne produced.
What Can Change
The findings emphasise that sourcing decisions are central, and brands can influence agricultural practices through their purchasing choices.
'Brands have spent a decade arguing about which natural fibre is more sustainable, many with little idea about how these fibres are farmed,' Arizona Muse, a fashion model and founder of DIRT Charity, said.
'DIRT Charity sees that fashion – as a sourcing power – has the opportunity to regenerate up to 30% of Earth's agricultural land through transitioning to regeneratively farmed biodynamic fibre. Healing the surface of the earth from toxic pollution while clothing humans.'
The report cites evidence from organic and biodynamic farming, including an Egyptian example where pesticide use fell below 10%, and cotton yields rose nearly 30% during the transition.
The EU's new rules, effective 27 September 2026, restrict certain generic environmental claims and require sustainability labels to be backed by official certificates or government bodies
Although the rules do not specifically address agricultural sourcing, Oxford research shows how important early production stages are to fashion's environmental impact.
