Keira Knightley
Keira Knightley's famous green 'Atonement' dress is reportedly going for auction at around £120,000 Andrea Raffin/Wikimedia Commons/CC BY-SA 3.0

Keira Knightley's emerald-green Atonement dress is heading to auction, nearly two decades after a version of the gown fetched $46,000 (£35,000) at a charity sale. The backless silk dress will go under the hammer at Christie's in London on 9 December, with an estimate of up to £120,000.

At the top of that estimate, it would fetch around three and a half times the $46,000 paid for a version in 2008. Thais Hitchins, head of sale at Christie's London, called it 'one of the most instantly recognizable' dresses in fashion history.

Knightley wore the gown as Cecilia Tallis in Joe Wright's 2007 adaptation of Ian McEwan's novel, in the film's pivotal library scene, where Cecilia and Robbie, played by James McAvoy, finally confess their feelings. Christie's said it has remained in a private collection in the US since a charity auction in 2008.

From Charity Sale to Christie's

That timeline matches a March 2008 auction run by the charity initiative Clothes Off Our Back, which raised money for Variety – The Children's Charity of Southern California. Bidding opened at just $1,000 (£750), and the size 2 dress sold for $46,000.

The listing at the time described it as a costume taken straight from the production's archives and authenticated by costume designer Jacqueline Durran. It also revealed a detail many fans may not know: the gown was one of several made for Knightley to wear during filming.

Why There Was More Than One

The dress was so delicate that it tore easily, so Durran's team made spare pieces to keep filming on track. 'We had three or four skirts and 10 bodices and when they tore, we would quickly repair them,' she has said.

Even the famous shade took careful work. Durran, Wright and cinematographer Seamus McGarvey put together a stack of green swatches, which dyer Tim Shanahan used to create the final colour on fine cream silk. The beaded detail on the bodice was inspired by a photograph by French photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue.

Durran has also admitted the gown is not strictly true to its 1930s setting. 'I chose elements from 1920s and 1930s dresses that I liked: the dress is not an authentic 30s dress,' she said.

Voted the Greatest Film Costume

The dress made an impact almost immediately. Within months of the film's release, a Sky Movies and InStyle poll voted it the best film costume of all time, ahead of famous looks worn by Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe.

Durran earned an Oscar nomination for Atonement and has since won two Academy Awards, for Anna Karenina and Little Women. Even so, she has said the dress's success caught her off guard.

'It was a complete surprise how much it did resonate with people and how much it was picked out as a single look from the movie,' she said in 2017.

The gown will be offered in Christie's 'Love & Lust: A Literary Guide' sale, and the auction house expects interest from private collectors, film fans and museums. Whoever wins it on 9 December will own one version of a costume so delicate that its makers needed several skirts and 10 bodices to finish filming.