Louis Vuitton is taking its watchmaking history back to 1988 with two striking new ceramic versions of the Monterey, reviving a distinctive design rooted in the house's first wristwatches.
The new models arrive in glossy green and black ceramic, retaining the unusual pebble-shaped case and 12 o'clock crown that made the original LV I and LV II so distinctive. Both measure 37mm across, matching the dimensions of the smaller 1988 LV II and offering a more compact alternative to the 39mm yellow-gold Monterey introduced previously.
The launch also marks an important step for the design: unlike the 188-piece limited-edition Monterey in yellow gold introduced previously, the two new ceramic watches join Louis Vuitton's permanent collection.
The return brings a distinctive piece of the house's late-1980s watchmaking history back into focus, while giving the design a modern mechanical update.
The 1988 LV II Returns in Green and Black Ceramic
The story begins with Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti, who designed Louis Vuitton's debut wristwatches, the LV I and LV II, in 1988.
Their rounded, lug-free cases gave them an unconventional appearance, resembling smooth pebbles rather than traditional watches. A crown positioned at 12 o'clock added to their pocket-watch-inspired appearance.
The smaller LV II was produced with black or green ceramic cases, a material that was still relatively unusual in watchmaking at the time. The new Monterey Ceramic models take their design cues specifically from that version, retaining its 37mm diameter while updating the mechanics and finishing for today.
The green model takes a more monochromatic approach, pairing a polished green ceramic case with a matching green lacquered dial. A white railway track and vivid yellow hour and minute hands provide sharp contrast.
The black version pairs its glossy ceramic case with a matte white lacquered dial. Red hour and minute hands, a blue seconds hand and red stitching on the black calf-leather strap continue the contrasting colour scheme.
Both retain the signature Clous de Paris crown at 12 o'clock, while the streamlined designs display only hours, minutes and seconds.
A Smaller, More Modern Monterey
While the dimensions stay faithful to the 1988 LV II, the new watches are mechanically very different from their predecessors.
Instead of the original quartz movement, both models use Louis Vuitton's LFT MA01.02 self-winding mechanical calibre, conceived and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. It provides a 45-hour power reserve and is housed beneath a closed caseback.
The move to mechanical watchmaking also makes the new Monterey thicker than the original. The original LV II's date and alarm functions have also been removed, leaving the new models with a deliberately pared-back time-only display.
That simplicity keeps the focus on the unusual case and graphic dial, while the automatic movement brings the 1988-inspired design into Louis Vuitton's contemporary watch collection.
The new watches follow Louis Vuitton's previous Monterey revival, which reinterpreted the design in a 39mm yellow-gold case with a Grand Feu enamel dial and was limited to 188 pieces.
Now, by returning to the 37mm proportions and ceramic colours of the original LV II, Louis Vuitton is bringing the Monterey closer to its 1988 roots while giving it a distinctly modern mechanical identity.
The result preserves several of the defining details of Louis Vuitton's early watch design while introducing a contemporary automatic movement and updated finishing.
