Indian fashion writer Eesha Singh has criticised Ralph Lauren and Prada for using traditional Indian designs, including jhumka earrings and Kolhapuri sandals, without adequately acknowledging their cultural origins.
In an opinion article published in the University of Cambridge student newspaper Varsity on Thursday, 12 November, Singh discussed how Indian fashion is represented in Western luxury collections, asking why traditional accessories and clothing are sometimes described differently without crediting their heritage. Singh argued that these examples highlight concerns about cultural appropriation and the need to recognise traditional craftsmanship within the international fashion industry.
Ralph Lauren's Jhumka Earrings
Singh questioned Ralph Lauren's description of traditional jhumka earrings as 'vintage accessories' during its Fall 2026 show. Jhumkas are bell-shaped drop earrings traditionally worn in India and are recognised for their distinctive designs. They have been part of Indian jewellery traditions for centuries.
In her article, Singh said the description failed to acknowledge the earrings' cultural identity and Indian origins. She also connected the issue to her personal experience growing up in India. The writer recalled initially associating Western clothing, music, and trends with being fashionable before developing a stronger connection to her South Asian identity after moving to the UK at 14. Singh said she later became more comfortable wearing traditional Indian accessories, including jhumkas, which she paired with her school uniform.
Prada's Kolhapuri Sandals Controversy
The writer also referenced Prada's controversy over sandals shown during a Milan show that resembled traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals associated with Maharashtra, particularly the city of Kolhapur. They are recognised for their traditional construction and have a long history in Indian footwear craftsmanship.
The criticism centred on the initial presentation of the sandals, which did not clearly acknowledge their connection to Indian craftsmanship. Singh noted that Prada later acknowledged the Indian inspiration behind the sandals and said it was willing to engage with local Maharashtrian artisans. The brand's response followed criticism over its initial failure to acknowledge the footwear's cultural origins.
Reformation's Dupatta-Inspired Designs
Singh further discussed the use of South Asian dupattas in Western fashion, referring to scarves and dresses presented as Scandinavian-inspired styles. She mentioned Reformation in connection with the trend, arguing that traditional South Asian designs should be recognised rather than repackaged under different cultural descriptions.
A dupatta is a traditional scarf worn across South Asia, commonly paired with outfits such as salwar kameez. It is an established part of the region's clothing heritage.
The writer also compared the growing popularity of South Asian fashion influences with the mainstream acceptance of East Asian cultural products, including K-pop, matcha and bubble tea. She said some of her East Asian friends had experienced racial bullying and microaggressions before seeing elements of their cultures become popular internationally.
Cultural Appropriation in Luxury Fashion
Singh also discussed the distinction between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation, focusing on international fashion brands' use of traditional designs. She referenced activist Julia Serano's criteria for identifying problematic cultural appropriation, including erasure, exploitation, and denigration.
Singh applied these criteria to the examples involving Ralph Lauren and Prada, arguing that the lack of recognition for Indian designs raises concerns about cultural erasure and exploitation. The writer also highlighted the challenges facing traditional Indian craftsmanship and the need to recognise the artisans and communities that preserve these practices.
