Matières Fécales brought a fiery fantasy to Paris Fashion Week, sending a phoenix-inspired look down the runway in one of the most theatrical looks from its Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
Led by Hannah Rose and Steven Raj, the brand is known for combining fashion, performance, and post-human imagery. It presented its SS27 collection on 28 September.
The collection's standout look draws 'inspiration' from the Phoenix, a mythical firebird associated with destruction and rebirth. It uses layers of feather-like material in red, orange, and yellow to create a fiery effect.
The feathers framed the model's neck, while twisted footwear extended the red palette to the toes.
Revolutionary fires @ Matières Fécales ss27 pic.twitter.com/kJemnUqFq2
— linda (@itgirlbackup) September 28, 2026
While the burning look was the show's most dramatic, the collection moved between softer colours and darker, almost monstrous or otherworldly outfits. Its larger production focused on outsiders, immigrants and traditional ideas of power.
'Ninety Nine Percent'
Matières Fécales named its SS27 collection Ninety Nine Percent, following last season's One Percent.
The show took place at Place de la République, known for protests and public gatherings. It featured 99 models of colour in a presentation inspired by Steven Raj Bhaskaran's upbringing in Montreal's immigrant community.
'We spoke for a lot of people who don't have a voice in this arena, in this city, in this environment,' Bhaskaran said.
The presentation was divided into three chapters: FAMILY, TRIBE, and GODS.
The first section showed white clothes and Bhaskaran's family members. It was followed by military and punk-inspired pieces.
The final chapter featured detailed high-fashion designs. It ended with models carrying realistic billionaire figures around the République statue.
Part of the money from SS27 collection sales will go to La Maison d'Allanah, a French charity that provides housing for LGBTQIA+ refugees.
Soft Meets Monstrous
The collection consistently shifted between delicate and disturbing imagery.
Pale tailoring, fluid draping, and soft silhouettes contrasted with models featuring black or blood-red eyes. Sharp spikes extended from faces and bodies, accompanied by ghostly, blood-streaked features.
This styling turned models into creature-like figures, with altered faces and bodies that challenged conventional beauty standards. In contrast, some looks remained restrained, further emphasising the impact of the more extreme designs.
An online user wrote on X, 'This Matières Fécales collection included some bright and optimistic looks to make the contrast with their familiar darker aesthetic, and they proved they can definitely do both!!'
This Matières Fécales collection included some bright and optimistic looks to make the contrast with their familiar darker aesthetic, and they proved they can definitely do both!! pic.twitter.com/1ldW4vHylF
— Kea (@jacquemusx) September 28, 2026
The BEAUTY details of ✨️Matières Fécales✨️ Spring/Summer 2027.🪡 pic.twitter.com/uaXGHrotCj
— La Mode Unknown (@LaModeUnknown) September 28, 2026
Bodies, Money and History
The collection's critique of power was clearest in the finale. A model carried two blindfolded male mannequins dressed in black, with money covering their eyes.
This image echoed the show's broader theme of reversing social status. BoF described the production as people of colour carrying white billionaires on their backs.
The choice of Place de la République added another layer, given the square's long association with public demonstrations and collective political expression.
The image can also be read alongside the confrontational body imagery of Rick Owens' work, including his Fall 2006 collection.
forgive me: FW 2006 Issue of Purple Magazine feat Vincent Gallo photographed by Terry Richardson wearing Rick Owens for the FW 2006 Issue of Purple Magazine / Metières Fécales SS27 pic.twitter.com/ieaeLAg8aO
— Hifashion (@HifashionPages) September 29, 2026
Distressed Meets Couture
The same tension was evident in the garments' construction.
Tailored jackets featured frayed peplums, while matching skirts had unfinished hems. Distressed denim, leather, and tulle appeared throughout the collection.
Some pieces had extra fabric extending from sleeves and hips. Other looks combined sharp tailoring with distressed or torn surfaces. Added structures and oversized nails altered the silhouette.
As a result, the collection moved between familiar wardrobe staples and avant-garde runway pieces, blending both without a clear division.
A Crowded Opening
The show drew large crowds and high-profile guests, including Rihanna, Rick Owens, Michèle Lamy, Daphne Guinness, Nikki Lilly and Gigi Goode.
This interest shows how much Matières Fécales has grown since starting outside the usual fashion world, with DIY designs and Depop sales. Its SS27 show brought this identity to a prominent Paris Fashion Week venue.
The collection fused outsider status and strength. It used fire, imagination, twisted bodies, unfinished clothes, and a confrontational runway performance.
