A shocking clash at the COS runway show during New York Fashion Week has grown into a much bigger debate about how people are treated in the fashion industry.
Steven Kolb, then CEO and president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), was filmed restraining PETA protesters after they disrupted the COS runway show on 13 September. The footage spread quickly online, leading to criticism, an apology from Kolb and, days later, his resignation.
But the incident has also pushed some fashion insiders to ask a wider question. If the industry says violence and poor treatment are unacceptable, should it also look at the everyday ways journalists, workers, protesters and others in fashion are treated?
What Happened at COS?
PETA protesters entered the COS runway show in New York to protest the brand's use of wool. At least five activists disrupted the presentation, with some entering the runway while carrying signs and shouting about the treatment of sheep.
Videos from the show captured Kolb physically intervening rather than leaving the protesters to security. Reuters reported that he grabbed at least two activists, pinned one protester to the ground and covered her mouth with his hand.
The confrontation stood out because protests at fashion shows are not new. PETA has targeted fashion's use of animal-derived materials for years, but Kolb's physical response turned this protest into a major industry story.
Kolb Apologises and Resigns
Kolb later admitted that his response was wrong. In his apology, he said there was 'no justification for physically restraining another person' and that security should have dealt with the situation instead.
Kolb took voluntary leave while the CFDA's board reviewed what happened. He had spent more than two decades at the organisation, including 15 years as its CEO, making the fallout especially significant for American fashion.
On 18 September, Kolb announced that he was resigning as CEO and president. The CFDA said it respected his decision and thanked him for his years of service, while PETA said it still hoped to speak with him about the use of animal materials in fashion.
'Violence Has No Place'
The incident soon led to a broader discussion online. Fashion journalist Beyza Paydin wrote that while people were shocked by the violence at the COS show, disrespectful treatment in fashion can also happen in quieter ways.
Paydin described experiences of being pushed by bouncers and spoken to disrespectfully at show entrances. She also raised concerns about journalists being expected to attend outdoor shows in heavy rain and said a colleague had to be taken away by ambulance during the previous fashion week. The ambulance claim comes from Paydin's personal account and has not been independently verified by Fashion Times UK.
'Everyone who is part of the fashion ecosystem, including the protesters, is a human being, not cattle,' Paydin wrote in the statement shared online. She ended with a clear message: 'Violence has no place in fashion, or anywhere else.'
Pisano Pushes Back
Fashion commentator Louis Pisano responded to Paydin's post with a different view. He pushed back against the idea that difficult weather conditions at fashion events should be part of the same discussion, writing: 'Get an umbrella or stay home idk?'
Pisano has, however, strongly criticised Kolb's actions at the COS show itself. In a separate piece, he argued that a disruptive protest did not justify a fashion executive physically restraining protesters and questioned the response of other people sitting nearby.
While Kolb's physical actions drew strong criticism, there is less agreement over whether difficult show conditions, long waits and other forms of poor treatment should be placed in the same conversation.
Beyond the COS Clash
There is no evidence that the COS incident proves poor treatment is widespread across the entire fashion industry. Claims about journalists being pushed, left in bad weather or otherwise treated badly also vary by event and, in some cases, come from individual accounts rather than independently documented reports.
Still, the reaction shows that the incident has sparked a wider conversation. The CFDA says its work includes creating a positive impact in American fashion, alongside initiatives involving diversity, inclusion and sustainability.
The question now is whether the conversation ends with Kolb's departure or leads to a longer discussion about behaviour across the industry. For Paydin, the principle is simple: glamour, business and disagreement should never come before treating people with humanity.
