When Saint Laurent unveiled its Men's Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week, it was not the oversized tailoring or fluid silhouettes that dominated post-show conversation. Instead, it was a pair of transparent dress shoes that quickly divided critics, fashion insiders and social media users alike.
Designed under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the clear vinyl lace-up shoes became one of the week's most polarising runway moments.
While some praised the design as another example of fashion challenging conventions, many others questioned both its practicality and appeal, with critics pointing to everything from visible perspiration to the unusual emphasis on bare feet.
Transparent Footwear Steals the Spotlight
Presented during Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show in Paris, the transparent oxfords accompanied the house's signature sharp tailoring, lightweight jackets and fluid trousers.
The show itself embraced themes of restraint, sensuality and mystery, taking place inside the Bourse de Commerce amid an immersive fog installation titled Cloud #07156. Anthony Vaccarello described the collection as exploring the fine line between classy and kinky, with translucency emerging as one of its defining visual motifs.
While transparent heels and sandals have appeared regularly in womenswear for years, applying the concept to formal men's footwear represented a notable shift. According to recent reporting, the collection marked Saint Laurent's attempt to bring the clear-shoe trend into men's luxury fashion.
Fashion Fans Were Unconvinced
The shoes quickly became one of the most talked-about accessories of Paris Fashion Week, but not necessarily for the reasons Saint Laurent may have hoped.
Fashion commentators and social media users questioned both the aesthetic and practicality of completely transparent dress shoes, particularly as Paris experienced exceptionally high temperatures during the menswear shows.
Critics joked about condensation building inside the shoes, while others suggested the design would make sweaty feet impossible to ignore.
Australian stylist Jeff Lack was among those to weigh in, arguing the footwear appeared intentionally provocative rather than commercially wearable. Meanwhile, fashion commentator Fashion Critical mocked the concept, highlighting concerns over moisture and visibility inside the shoes.
Online reactions followed a similar theme, with many users joking that the 'fog' inside the shoes would eventually rival the theatrical mist used during the runway presentation. Others questioned whether exposing every detail of the foot was a direction consumers had actually been asking for.
Anthony Vaccarello Continues To Challenge Menswear Norms
The controversy fits comfortably within Vaccarello's creative philosophy.
Throughout his tenure at Saint Laurent, the Belgian designer has consistently blurred traditional ideas of masculinity by introducing sheer fabrics, dramatic silhouettes, latex-inspired materials and provocative styling into menswear collections.
This latest collection continued that trajectory, pairing translucent shoes with oversized jackets, airy shirts, slim tailoring and flowing fabrics. Rather than presenting hyper-masculine uniforms, Vaccarello leaned into sensuality and ambiguity, continuing a broader shift toward gender-fluid luxury fashion.
According to reports covering the collection, Vaccarello has said he has 'always' been drawn to fetish-inspired design elements, using them subtly rather than overtly.
Clear Shoes Are Not Entirely New
Although many online commenters treated the footwear as unprecedented, transparent shoes have existed within fashion for decades.
PVC heels, clear sandals and translucent pumps have cycled in and out of women's fashion since the late 20th century, regularly appearing on luxury runways and celebrity red carpets.
What makes Saint Laurent's latest offering unusual is its application to classic men's dress shoes. Rather than using transparency for minimalist sandals or casual footwear, the brand transformed a traditional Oxford silhouette into a fully see-through design, creating a striking contrast between classic tailoring and experimental materials.
Love Them Or Hate Them, People Are Talking
Fashion has long relied on shock value to generate conversation, and by that measure, Saint Laurent achieved its objective.
The shoes became one of the defining talking points of Paris Fashion Week, generating headlines across fashion publications, mainstream news outlets and social media platforms. Some commentators praised the design's willingness to push menswear beyond conventional boundaries, while others viewed it as an example of runway experimentation disconnected from everyday wearability.
The broader Spring/Summer 2027 menswear season also showcased increasingly theatrical footwear, including ballet-inspired flats, sculptural loafers and unconventional boots, suggesting luxury brands are becoming more willing to experiment with men's shoes in ways traditionally reserved for womenswear.
Will Consumers Embrace the Trend?
Whether transparent formal shoes become a commercial success remains uncertain.
Luxury fashion often serves as a testing ground for ideas that eventually evolve into more wearable designs. While many runway concepts never reach mainstream wardrobes unchanged, they frequently influence future collections through subtler interpretations.
For now, Saint Laurent's transparent dress shoes have succeeded in doing what many headline-grabbing runway pieces are designed to accomplish: spark debate.
Whether viewed as innovative, impractical or simply provocative, the shoes ensured that one accessory, not an entire collection, became the defining image of Saint Laurent's latest Paris Fashion Week presentation.
