Zendaya has done it again, only this time the message runs deeper than fashion. At the London afterparty for Spider-Man: Brand New Day, she swapped a Tamara Ralph Couture gown for a striped black-and-white halter dress with a red ruffled hem, a design plucked from a 1987 comic book and rebuilt by one Black American designer as a tribute to another.
That designer is LaQuan Smith, recreating a sketch by the late Willi Smith, who was once regarded as the most successful Black fashion designer in America. This pairing connects two generations and spans almost 40 years, staged before a global audience that came to see superhero content but left with a lesson in fashion history.
Bypassing the Obvious Choice
The original sketches, commissioned by Marvel for The Amazing Spider-Man Annual #21, included a lace wedding gown for Mary Jane Watson, the obvious showstopper of the set. Roach and Zendaya passed over it entirely, choosing a lesser-known striped party dress with a mermaid flounce instead.
While it's easier to reference the well-known piece, choosing the less-recognised one demonstrates a deeper understanding of Smith's work. LaQuan Smith kept the stripes and the flowing red skirt, but replaced the original turtleneck with a plunging halter. He described the final look as 'a tribute to the past' and 'a homage to Willi Smith'.
A Bittersweet Comic Book Landmark
The dress holds a special significance. In 1987, Marvel staged a live re-enactment of Peter Parker and Mary Jane's wedding at Shea Stadium, bringing Willi Smith's designs to life before thousands of fans.
It was a strange and wonderful collision of comic book spectacle and serious fashion. Tragically, Smith passed away from AIDS-related complications just two months prior, at the young age of 39, leaving behind an impactful legacy that forever transformed American style.
The Legacy of WilliWear
Through his label WilliWear, Smith built what he called 'street couture', taking everyday separates and West African tailoring influences and turning them into accessible, beautifully cut clothing years before streetwear became a runway staple.
His signature was the oversized 'Williwear pant', paired with loose tunics and boxy jackets that let the body move freely, a relaxed silhouette borrowed from the street rather than the atelier. He dressed Spike Lee's School Daze and collaborated with Keith Haring, and while his name may not be in the spotlight lately, this revival is truly deserving of the attention it's finally receiving.
Redefining the Red Carpet
Law Roach has long operated more as an archivist than a traditional stylist, and this particular look serves as his clearest proof yet. Fans on social media reacted with genuine surprise, many admitting they had never heard of Willi Smith until Roach's Instagram breakdown sent them searching his archive.
Zendaya and Roach have demonstrated throughout this tour that a blockbuster press campaign can offer more than just marketing. By wearing a single striped dress, they transformed a Marvel photocall into a meaningful act of preservation. There is a growing belief that this may just be the start of red-carpet fashion serving as a lesson in history.
