Chemena Kamali is emerging as a leading contender to take over Saint Laurent following Anthony Vaccarello's departure on 9 October 2026, prompting speculation that the house could appoint its first female creative director. The German designer, who currently serves as creative director of Chloé, is tipped to succeed Vaccarello after he stepped down following a decade at the helm.
However, Saint Laurent has yet to officially announce his successor, leaving Kamali's reported move unconfirmed. If appointed, Kamali would become the first woman to lead Saint Laurent's creative direction, marking a significant moment for a fashion house whose legacy has been shaped by some of the industry's most influential designers.
Chemena Kamali's Saint Laurent Connection
Kamali is no stranger to Saint Laurent. Before taking the creative reins at Chloé in 2023, she spent seven years at Saint Laurent, joining the house in 2016 as womenswear ready-to-wear design director under Anthony Vaccarello. Her time at the fashion house gave her firsthand experience with an aesthetic rooted in the vision of its founder, Yves Saint Laurent.
Established in 1961 with Pierre Bergé, the label built its reputation on challenging conventional ideas about how women should dress. One of its most enduring contributions was Le Smoking, the women's tuxedo that brought traditionally masculine tailoring into the spotlight of womenswear. Safari jackets, sharply tailored silhouettes and sensual eveningwear also became defining elements of the house's identity.
If appointed, Kamali would have the opportunity to draw on this legacy while bringing her own perspective to a fashion house she already knows. Her return would also mark a potential turning point for Saint Laurent, placing a woman at the creative helm for the first time.
From Chloé to a Potential New Chapter
Kamali joined Chloé as creative director in October 2023, returning to a house where she had previously worked under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller. Her relationship with the French label stretches back more than two decades. After studying fashion at Central Saint Martins in London, where she graduated with distinction in 2007, she developed her career through positions at several established fashion houses before returning to Chloé.
Her first collection for the brand, presented during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024, drew on Chloé's free-spirited identity, with flowing fabrics, romantic silhouettes and an emphasis on femininity. The collection helped establish the direction of her tenure, reconnecting the house with elements of its heritage while presenting them through a contemporary lens. That experience could prove relevant at Saint Laurent, where any incoming creative director would face the challenge of maintaining a recognisable identity while finding fresh ways to develop it.
What Comes After Anthony Vaccarello?
Vaccarello's departure marks the end of a decade that reshaped Saint Laurent's modern identity. Appointed in 2016, he developed a distinctive aesthetic built around precise tailoring, body-conscious silhouettes and dramatic eveningwear.
His runway shows, frequently staged against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, became fixtures of the Paris Fashion Week calendar. During his tenure, Saint Laurent also expanded its cultural presence beyond clothing through Saint Laurent Productions, its film production venture.
The brand's commercial performance, however, has faced challenges in recent years. According to Reuters, Saint Laurent recorded revenue declines in 2024 and 2025 before stabilising in 2026. The next creative director will therefore inherit both a strong global identity and the responsibility of sustaining the house's relevance in a changing luxury market.
A Potential Milestone for Women in Fashion
Kamali's career has already taken her through two influential French fashion houses, giving her experience in working with established design identities rather than building solely around a personal label. A possible move to Saint Laurent would represent another major step in that career. It would also put a woman at the creative helm of a house whose history is closely associated with Yves Saint Laurent's groundbreaking approach to womenswear.
For now, the fashion industry is waiting for confirmation. If the reports prove correct, her next chapter could become one of the most closely watched transitions in luxury fashion, bringing her back to a house she knows well and potentially making history in the process. Either way, having someone like her in the fashion industry is a win for every woman.
