Anthony Vaccarello marked 10 years at Saint Laurent with a spectacular Spring/Summer 2027 collection beneath the Eiffel Tower, in a show that could ultimately prove to be his final presentation for the French fashion house.
The Saint Laurent creative director presented his latest collection in Paris on Tuesday, 29 September, marking a decade since his first show for the house. The presentation came amid reports that Vaccarello was set to step down, although Saint Laurent and its parent company Kering had not officially confirmed his departure at the time of publication.
That uncertainty gave the show an unmistakable sense of occasion. Held outdoors at the Trocadéro fountain, with the Eiffel Tower glowing gold behind the runway, the presentation unfolded as a lavish celebration of the aesthetic Vaccarello has built since taking over from Hedi Slimane in 2016.
The supplied Instagram post from YSL Obsessed described the moment as 'The end of Saint Laurent's golden era', calling the presentation Vaccarello's 'final show' and the 'closing chapter' of his creative era. Those descriptions reflect the mood surrounding the presentation, but Vaccarello's departure remained officially unconfirmed.
A Decade of Sharp, Sensual Saint Laurent
Vaccarello's Saint Laurent has developed a recognisable visual language built around sharp tailoring, sensual silhouettes and an unapologetically glamorous attitude.
His latest collection brought those elements together while turning up the spectacle. Models walked in shimmering gold dresses with raised embroidery, gold brocade skirts and jackets with sharp collars, as well as gold trench coats.
The Eiffel Tower glittered gold in the background, adding to the theatrical quality of the presentation. Front row guests included BLACKPINK singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek.
The collection eventually shifted towards black evening gowns, with billowing sleeves and long trains providing a dramatic finale. Charlotte Gainsbourg then performed in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello came out to applause from the crowd, smiling and waving.
The presentation carried the cinematic quality that has become closely associated with Vaccarello's vision for the house.
Since his appointment in 2016, he has helped shape Saint Laurent around a distinctive combination of glamour, sharp tailoring and sensual dressing. Reuters has also credited Vaccarello with expanding the label's reach during his decade at the house.
What Comes Next for Saint Laurent?
The question hanging over the house now is what happens if Vaccarello's decade-long tenure is really coming to an end.
Reports about his possible departure had circulated before the September show, making Tuesday's presentation particularly significant. However, those reports remained separate from an official announcement, and Saint Laurent had not publicly confirmed his exit at the time of publication.
The timing added to the significance of the collection. Vaccarello's latest presentation arrived 10 years after his first show for Saint Laurent, giving the event the added weight of a major career milestone.
His appearance at the finale only intensified speculation. After the black gowns and Gainsbourg's performance, Vaccarello emerged in a classic black Saint Laurent suit to applause from the audience.
For a designer who has spent a decade defining Saint Laurent through razor-sharp shoulders, sensual dressing and a cinematic approach to fashion, the sequence fuelled further speculation that the show could mark the end of his tenure.
The Eiffel Tower glowed gold. The final looks moved into black eveningwear. Charlotte Gainsbourg performed. And Vaccarello took his bow.
Whether or not it ultimately proves to be his final Saint Laurent collection, the Spring/Summer 2027 show has already become a defining moment in the story of his tenure and a striking possible farewell to one of the house's most distinctive modern chapters.
