While luxury footwear increasingly embraces statement shapes, playful embellishments and distinctive heels, Swiss-Chilean designer Nina Christen pursues a distinct direction. She prioritises shape, construction and materials to create what she calls 'little sculptures'.
Following her experience at Loewe and Bottega Veneta, Christen launched her own label in 2024. In 2025, she was appointed Dior's design director of shoes, collaborating with designers including Jonathan Anderson.
'Tailoring is very linked to shoes because tailoring is all about construction, and for me shoes are little sculptures,' Christen told the South China Morning Post in an interview. 'I love going to the factories to create shapes and heels; tailoring is a bit like that. It gives structure and adds volume, sometimes extreme volume or very rigid volume, but it can still be considered a sculpture.'
Her philosophy is reflected in the Helix collection, which includes pointed-toe pumps, mules, and sandals with slim heels that flare at the base. These distinctive shapes offer familiar styles an unconventional silhouette without excessive embellishment.
'I want to express the essence of a product and its attitudes with as few elements as possible,' she explained. 'It's harder because everything becomes more visible when you don't have many decorative elements, and the material and the base and the shape need to be stronger.'
The Importance of Materials
Christen's focus on construction extends to manufacturing. She regularly visits suppliers in Italy's Veneto region to develop new shapes and materials, such as stretchable suede, collaborating closely with long-standing manufacturing partners.
'I love to work with my hands, so when I went to Veneto for the first time, I realised that it was there that I could feel the materials; factories are my happy place,' she said.
'After 15 years, I still love going there. I know everyone in the business, and they all know me. Excellence in shoemaking in Italy is mainly from Veneto. Anything you have in mind, someone there can do it for you.'
Her designs, including the Helix Buckle Shearling Sandal and close-fitting knee-high boots, reflect her interest in material and form. Each shoe's construction shapes its visual identity.
From Loewe to Dior
Before launching her label, Christen worked at Celine, Bottega Veneta, Loewe, and The Row. Her designs, such as Bottega Veneta's Puddle boot and Loewe's balloon pumps, established her reputation in luxury footwear.
In 2025, Christen joined Dior as design director of shoes, overseeing all footwear, including men's and haute couture collections. Her experience across fashion enabled her to explore diverse aesthetics while keeping her creative identity.
'I see my job a bit like acting; you have to play a character. What shoe would I wear if I were this woman? It's fun to slip into these different roles.'
Building Her Own Label
Christen launched her namesake brand in 2024, following years of refining her technical skills and personal aesthetic. She set out to create footwear that reflected her identity rather than adhere to established luxury conventions.
'I couldn't find shoes I 100 per cent loved because when you work as a designer, it's also about your identity,' she told the publisher. 'With time, I realised what my real identity was, and who I was, and I had to express this and give it shape.'
Her vision also encompasses her first Paris boutique at 1 Rue de la Paix. Opened in 2026, the boutique features a restrained interior, developed with multidisciplinary artist Azadeh Shladovsky, that uses raw materials to highlight the products.
In a separate interview with Wallpaper published on 8 March 2026, Christen explained that the shop was designed to complement the collection rather than embellish it. The boutique presents footwear as objects to be appreciated beyond their practical function.
Retailers such as Mytheresa, Lane Crawford, Selfridges, and Bergdorf Goodman stock the label. Christen has also expanded into ready-to-wear, offering denim trousers and jersey tops produced in Japan.
