Skincare has traditionally been something people ease into during their late teens or early 20s, often after dealing with breakouts or experimenting with different products. Today, however, that pattern is changing.
Scroll through TikTok or Instagram, and it's not unusual to see children as young as eight confidently showcasing multi-step routines featuring serums, toners, and even anti-ageing products.
For many parents, this shift is concerning and raises an uncomfortable question. Are children becoming obsessed with skincare too early?
The rise of so-called 'Sephora kids' has sparked global debate, blending beauty culture with concerns about mental health, consumerism, and online influence. Now, regulators in Italy are stepping in to examine whether the industry itself is partly responsible.
Italy Launches Probe Into Sephora and Benefit
The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) has launched an investigation into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics, both owned by LVMH. The allegations include promoting skincare products to children using questionable marketing tactics.
Authorities are scrutinising whether the brands used covert marketing strategies, including very young micro-influencers, to encourage minors to purchase products such as face masks, serums and anti-ageing creams.
The concern goes beyond advertising itself. It focuses on whether important information was missing, unclear, or not properly communicated, such as whether these products are appropriate for children.
Reportedly, the investigation involves inspections of company offices in Italy. While both brands deny wrongdoing and say they comply with regulations, the probe reflects growing unease about how beauty products are positioned to younger audiences.
The Italian authority linked the alleged practices to the broader issue of so-called 'cosmeticorexia.'
'Cosmeticorexia': Trend or Threat?
Cosmeticorexia refers to an unhealthy obsession with skincare, particularly among children and teenagers. It's described as a behavioural pattern where young people feel compelled to follow elaborate routines or constantly purchase new products, often chasing the idea of 'perfect skin.'
Unlike typical self-care, cosmeticorexia is linked to compulsive habits and unrealistic expectations. These are reportedly fuelled by constant exposure to curated beauty content.
Experts warn that this trend is not just psychological. Children's skin is more delicate, and using potent ingredients — such as retinol or exfoliating acids — can lead to irritation, redness, or long-term damage.
Is Skincare Safe for Children?
From a medical standpoint, most experts agree that children do not need complex skincare routines. Basic hygiene is usually sufficient, including gentle cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection.
Problems arise when adult-targeted products are used prematurely. Anti-ageing creams, active serums, and chemical exfoliants are formulated for mature skin concerns, not developing skin. Misuse can disrupt the skin barrier and cause sensitivity.
The aspect of mental wellness is also present. Constant exposure to idealised beauty standards may lead to anxiety, low self-esteem, and a fixation on appearance from a very young age.
The Role of Micro-Influencers
Social media platforms are central to the rise of cosmeticorexia. Short-form videos like 'get ready with me' clips, have turned skincare into a form of entertainment and identity, even for pre-teens.
Italian regulators have specifically flagged the use of micro-influencers — often young creators themselves — as a key concern. These influencers can make product use appear normal, aspirational, and even necessary, blurring the line between content and advertising.
Children are not just watching. They are participating, sharing hauls, comparing routines, and influencing peers. In many households, they are even shaping family spending decisions on beauty products.
What This Means for Parents
For parents, the trend can feel overwhelming. A child asking for a moisturiser may seem harmless. But when it escalates to a 10-step routine, it becomes harder to navigate. Open conversations about marketing, social media, and realistic expectations are increasingly important.
This recent probe could mark a turning point for the beauty industry. Brands are being forced to reconsider how they engage with younger consumers and balance commercial opportunity with ethical responsibility.
Regulators, meanwhile, appear ready to act. The outcome of the investigation could shape future rules not just in Italy, but across Europe, particularly around influencer marketing and product transparency.
Ultimately, cosmeticorexia is more than just a buzzword. It reflects a cultural shift where beauty, identity, and digital influence are shaping children at an increasingly young age—raising important questions about where boundaries should be set.
