An original 1970s Bvlgari Melone clutch weighs 362.5 grams, bears a 750 stamp for 18K gold, and one dealer lists it for $87,750 (approximately £66,300). Meanwhile, the 2026 version is pleated aluminium with a gold finish.
Bvlgari announced the return this October, describing it as 'a dialogue between past and present' rather than a straight reissue. The new clutch closes with a white mother-of-pearl cabochon, is lined in nappa leather and comes with two silk tassels, one black and one ivory. Twelve more tassel colours can be ordered, though no price has been confirmed.
The Evolution of the Bvlgari Melone
The Melone belongs to the historical tradition of the minaudière, a compact, rigid evening case that originated in the 1930s and functions more like high jewelry than standard leather goods.
Historically, these pieces followed two distinct philosophies: French artisans favored delicate, lightweight aesthetics, while Italian ateliers leaned into bold structural volume and substantial weight.
Bvlgari's original 1970s Melone exemplifies the Italian approach. Crafted in Italy using two-tone 18K yellow and white gold, its alternating diagonal fluting reflects the textured surface of its namesake fruit.
Every element demonstrates high-jewelry technique, including a signature oval blue sapphire cabochon clasp, official Italian goldsmith hallmarks, a 750 purity mark indicating 75% gold content, and a gold tassel loop modeled after a melon attached to its vine.
The modern iteration introduces an unexpected shift. In re-releasing the classic model, Bvlgari chose to construct the new body from gold-finished aluminium. While the reissue preserves the original 1970s proportions and metallic sheen, replacing solid gold with a lighter metal changes its market profile, shifting the piece from a bullion-backed heirloom to an accessible, wearable design object.
Is the Bvlgari Melone Minaudière Worth the Price Tag?
While an asking price of $87,750 reflects seller ambition and dealer markups, the original 1970s solid-gold piece retains an intrinsic floor of physical value. Tipping the scales at 362.5 grams, its worth is anchored to real-time bullion markets, creating a tangible financial baseline that no modern, lightweight aluminium alternative can ever replicate.
The two clutches earn their worth in different ways. The original has the metal and the Bvlgari name. The revival has only the name and design.
Prestige Magazine reports that the idea is for the clutch to stay the same while the tassel changes with the outfit or the occasion, and the colour options run to fourteen in all. Meanwhile, A&E Magazine describes the piece as a sculptural evening accessory that sits between a handbag, a jewel and an objet d'art.
Why Bvlgari Is Betting on Archival Objets d'Art
The Bvlgari Melone now stands at a fascinating crossroads between legacy and versatility. Where the 1970s original is a heavy, hallmarked heirloom anchored by the intrinsic value of solid gold, the 2026 revival reinvents the silhouette in gold-finish aluminium, complete with interchangeable tassels for effortless styling.
Consequently, the design exists in two distinct spheres: an archival masterpiece with inherent bullion worth, and a modern accessory that relies entirely on sculptural prestige.
While fine art dealers already feature rare iterations, from classic two-tone editions to diamond-encrusted custom pieces, the market verdict remains to be seen until secondary auction results and Bvlgari's official reissue pricing are made public.
