Rick Owens brought his sculptural designs to Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2027, turning painstaking construction into some of the most striking looks from his latest collection.
The collection pushed Owens' signature industrial shapes into lighter, more delicate territory. Among the pieces, Exoskeleton-style jackets made from GRS-certified recycled nylon tulle stood out, with each one taking approximately 45 hours to complete.
He presented the collection at the Palais de Tokyo and named it Stone to represent three ideas: elegant stoicism, the stone rolled away at Christ's resurrection, and the everyday act of stone-throwing that Owens says he opposes.
This idea of judgement runs through the collection's symbols, including pentagrams, graphs and cyphers. Owens described the pentagram as his 'little protest' against judgement and intolerance, while the graphs and cyphers represent systems of control.
Collectively, they give the collection a distinct visual identity rooted in Owens' sculptural approach and themes of resistance.
bags at stone ss27 women's pic.twitter.com/YX35dkpoF7
— posting rick (@rickipediaaa) October 1, 2026
stone ss27 women's pic.twitter.com/4trPGwfGpG
— posting rick (@rickipediaaa) October 1, 2026
Setting and Materials
Owens staged the show on a runway crossing the venue's pool as fountains rose on either side and models walked between them.
Its theatrical setting complemented silhouettes that shifted between rigid construction, flowing fabrics and exaggerated proportions.
Industrial nylon webbing was transformed into a dense double duchesse fabric, adding another layer of texture to the collection.
Other looks used heavyweight silk duchesse, sulphur-dyed Japanese denim and hand-finished lamb leather, pairing the heavier materials with flowing trousers, tunics and cropped microjackets.
Leather jackets featured internal straps that allowed them to sit across the shoulders like wings.
stone ss27 women's pic.twitter.com/uQnAYtEMvI
— posting rick (@rickipediaaa) October 1, 2026
Built Stitch By Stitch
The most intricate pieces came in the form of Owens' millefoglie jackets, which revisited the tensegrity structures he had previously explored in latex and leather.
For SS27, the structures were rebuilt in recycled nylon tulle. Thousands of individually cut circles were sewn onto a tulle base before the material was sculpted around the body and attached to a heavy cotton poplin base.
The process required almost 200 metres of fabric and about 40 to 45 hours to make each jacket.
The tulle designs gave Owens' exoskeleton concept a lighter, more delicate expression while keeping the architectural shape of the earlier versions.
Closing looks combined cement grey, creamy chemical yellow, tulle and elastic to create silhouettes that appeared rigid while remaining light and transparent.
The contrast between industrial materials and softer fabrics ran throughout the collection, making these intricate jackets a clear expression of Owens' approach to SS27: extreme construction softened through fabric, texture and movement.
shoe situation at stone ss27 women's pic.twitter.com/m2XZ7jiPSW
— posting rick (@rickipediaaa) October 2, 2026
From June's Exoskeletons
The exoskeleton idea was already taking shape in Owens' Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show in June, where he presented hand-built chaps in foam and latex.
The striking shapes wrapped around the body, establishing a distinct visual language for the collection. Owens later softened those forms in the womenswear collection through frothy tulle and lighter materials.
He also revisited the tensegrity influence for the women's collection, translating the rigid forms into a lighter, more delicate expression.
This approach changed the clothing's framing of the body, leaving more of the figure exposed. The pieces felt almost weightless despite their elaborate construction, contrasting with the denser, more protective structures of the menswear.
