Eleven designers from around the world brought their interpretations of identity, heritage and contemporary fashion to London Fashion Week, presenting collections that explored conventional ideas of clothing, craftsmanship and luxury.
Fashion Crossover London presented the seventh edition of The International New Waves Show during London Fashion Week on 18 September at Home House in Marylebone. The showcase brought together emerging creative talents from Hong Kong, South Korea, the United States, the Netherlands, China and the United Kingdom, with collections spanning womenswear, menswear, eveningwear, knitwear and fine jewellery.
Rather than following a single aesthetic, the designers explored subjects ranging from historical tragedies and cultural identity to mental health, architectural survival and sustainable fashion. The presentations also extended beyond the runway, with contemporary artists Asya Alpay and Daniela Raytchev contributing their work and South London singer-songwriter Moniah opening the evening.
Designs Inspired by Titanic History and Cultural Heritage
Among the collections was South Korean-born, New York-based designer Gyuri (Bella) Kim's Resurrected 1912: The New York Arrival, which reimagined the Titanic's unfinished journey through Edwardian-inspired silhouettes. Kim incorporated discarded sails, vintage clothing, linen tablecloths, deadstock fabrics and recycled textiles, using staining and crystallisation techniques to give forgotten materials new life.
The collection explored decay, resilience and the unfinished journeys of women whose lives were affected by the maritime tragedy. Rather than simply reproducing period fashion, Kim used the historical reference to examine how clothing can preserve stories and give discarded materials another purpose.
Cultural identity also featured prominently in the work of Yoté Jewelry founder Leah Prada, a New Mexican artist and citizen of the Genízaro Nation. Her handcrafted pieces draw inspiration from the folklore and layered histories of the American Southwest, transforming personal and cultural narratives into jewellery intended to be carried as talismans.
Hong Kong designer Suki Wang approached cultural storytelling through the intersection of fashion and art. A Central Saint Martins graduate whose creative experiences span China, Inner Mongolia, the United States and London, Wang incorporates vibrant colours, patterns and eco-conscious materials into pieces she describes as wearable art, with Taoist principles informing her connection to nature.
Architecture, Mental Health and Sustainability
Jasmine Cheung, who designs under the name Jas Hei, looked to Hong Kong's Kowloon Walled City for inspiration, examining how its densely packed buildings supported one another in an environment shaped by physical constraints. Her designs translated leaning structures and compressed spaces into interlocking garments, with fragmented patterns reflecting the history of a community whose physical surroundings were eventually demolished.
Taylor Portlock also turned an abstract subject into a physical design language, exploring mental health and the human desire for control. Her collection translated psychological coping mechanisms into compartmentalised garments, using paper-leather materials and black topstitching to evoke boxes and containers associated with protection, containment and order.
Sustainability informed the work of Dutch label Maison Míaré, which places oversized vintage blazers at the centre of its contemporary collections. Founded in 2024, the brand redesigns existing garments with distinctive finishes and details, offering limited-edition pieces that give vintage clothing a new lease of life.
Meanwhile, Hong Kong fine jewellery brand MUI Diamonds presented a contemporary interpretation of luxury through lab-grown diamonds and natural gemstones. Its approach combines bespoke and ready-to-wear designs, with the brand emphasising responsible sourcing and challenging traditional notions of exclusivity in fine jewellery.
Emerging Designers Explore Individuality and Craftsmanship
The remaining designers brought their own interpretations of contemporary dressing to the showcase. UK-based Celitaire presented its approach to modern femininity through handmade womenswear, combining contemporary silhouettes with artisanal details and in-house production.
American designer Suree' Caplan, working under the name Sureé Nicole, explored the construction of eveningwear, reinterpreting traditional silhouettes through an emphasis on fit, sewing and thoughtful detailing. Her practice also considers how clothing can accommodate different bodies and identities without sacrificing individuality.
Misfit of Misfits approached fashion through expressive knitwear and intimate apparel, drawing on nostalgia, fantasy and playful design. Its inclusive approach embraces different genders, shapes and sizes, while innovative knitting techniques and a background in sustainable materials inform its focus on individuality and more considered production.
Completing the lineup was London-based designer Yidan Gu, whose work bridges contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Gu explores the relationship between the body, clothing and craftsmanship through garment construction and material experimentation.
Beyond the collections, the evening brought together fashion and contemporary art through works by Istanbul-born artist Asya Alpay and Slovakian-Bulgarian artist Daniela Raytchev. Moniah's alternative R&B performance added a musical dimension to the showcase, reflecting Fashion Crossover London's broader celebration of creative expression across disciplines.
