Chloé paired sheer lingerie, lace and romantic embroidery with fishermen's coats and menswear-inspired tailoring for its spring-summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Creative director Chemena Kamali presented the collection, titled "Obsession," at the 17th-century Paris Observatory on Oct. 1, mixing lace, embroidery and sheer fabrics with rainwear, oversized outerwear and references to the house's archives.
Broderie anglaise appeared across crisp cotton and sheer organza, while lace, floral embroidery, puffed sleeves, ruffles and tassels ran through the collection.
Those softer pieces were paired with brightly coloured fishermen's coats and capes, including designs in red and yellow.
Lingerie Is Stripped Back to Its Outlines
Lingerie-inspired pieces appeared throughout the collection, but Kamali reduced some of them to narrow strips of fabric rather than conventional bras or corsets.
She described the pieces as "romantic harnesses," with lace framing exposed skin. A metallic strap crossed the bust on another look, bringing a harder element to the collection's sheer and flowing fabrics.
Transparent materials appeared elsewhere, including smoky vinyl layered over softer silhouettes. "I wanted something deeply personal — to return to things I love, the emotions they trigger in me," Kamali said.
Kamali also drew from historic forms of needlework. Broderie anglaise referenced 19th-century techniques, while raised floral embroidery recalled designs from the 1960s.
Fishermen's Coats Meet Chloé Lace
The lingerie and lace were paired with some of the collection's heaviest pieces.
Fishermen's coats and capes provided a starting point for the outerwear, while wide-brimmed hats extended the proportions of several looks. The coats appeared in saturated colours that contrasted with the collection's white lace and softer fabrics.
One of the clearest archival references came through tailoring rather than lingerie. Kamali revisited Chloé's scalloped 1972 "Noël" tuxedo, returning to the house's history of adapting elements of men's suiting for women.
The tailoring introduced structured jackets and sharper lines alongside the sheer dresses, embroidery and lingerie-inspired pieces.
Chloé's History Stretches Back to 1952
Chloé was founded in Paris in 1952, with Gaby Aghion pioneering luxury ready-to-wear at a time when high-end Paris fashion remained closely associated with made-to-measure couture.
Kamali became Chloé's creative director in 2023 and presented her first runway collection for the house in February 2024. For spring-summer 2027, she returned to the archives while continuing the romantic elements seen throughout her Chloé collections.
The runway also featured Apple Martin, the 22-year-old daughter of Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, making her catwalk debut in a long white dress with eyelet detailing and wooden platform shoes.
Claire Danes, Cynthia Erivo and Claudia Schiffer were among the guests at the Paris Observatory. The collection moved between sheer organza, lace and exposed lingerie details and oversized coats, capes and tailoring, with Chloé's 1972 tuxedo providing one of its direct links to the house's past.
