Balenciaga has appointed Martine Rose as creative director, bringing back the former menswear consultant who helped shape its oversized collections under Demna. Kering announced the appointment on 6 November, with the British designer due to begin her Paris-based role on 16 November.
Rose succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced on 5 November after less than 16 months in the role. She consulted on Balenciaga's menswear between 2015 and 2018, and now returns with responsibility for the house's overall creative direction rather than a menswear-focused consultancy.
What Rose Contributed to Balenciaga's Menswear
Demna recruited Rose as Balenciaga prepared to present menswear on the runway for the first time, bringing her experience of unconventional proportions into the collections. Cropped bomber jackets with ultra-wide shoulders, deliberately understated tracksuits and unusual suit jackets were among her design signatures associated with the house's contemporary menswear.
Her approach combined familiar everyday clothing with exaggerated proportions and unconventional silhouettes, drawing on ideas developed through her independent label. Rose contributed to the menswear while Demna retained overall creative leadership, making her new appointment a substantial change in responsibility rather than a resumption of her former role.
'It is a true privilege to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga, a House with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,' Rose said about her appointment. 'Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.
Demna's Invitation Helped Raise Rose's Profile
Rose launched her label in 2007 with help from a $2,000 (approximately £1,488) Prince's Trust loan and later recalled working in bars while designing in her spare time. The business initially failed to cover her rent, before the Balenciaga consultancy brought greater recognition and income.
In a 2021 British Vogue interview, she recalled the opportunity with Denma: 'That really changed my life,' she said. 'Demna was so brave in giving me a real shot.' Describing the opportunity, she said, 'Up until that point, I was basically squatting. 'It gave me the chance to actually do something, to put it all back into my own label and make a proper jump forward. It also gave me confidence.'
Balenciaga's Results Reveal Uneven Demand
The appointment comes as Kering seeks to revive growth, with its third-quarter results showing group revenue flat as reported and down 1% on a comparable basis. Its Fashion & Leather Goods division recorded a 3% comparable decline, a figure covering several houses rather than Balenciaga alone.
Kering said Balenciaga's leather goods remained resilient, while ready-to-wear and shoes continued to face challenges. Those difficulties form part of the commercial environment Rose inherits.
Kering Makes Another Creative Leadership Change
Rose's appointment follows the departures of Anthony Vaccarello from Saint Laurent and Seán McGirr from Alexander McQueen, extending a series of changes across Kering's fashion houses. Piccioli had presented three ready-to-wear collections and one couture collection since taking up the Balenciaga role in July 2025.
Kering did not detail the reasons for his departure and thanked him for reaffirming Balenciaga's couture origins through craftsmanship, construction, and creativity. In Rose's appointment statement, chief executive Luca de Meo said, 'Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the House.'
Balenciaga's Growth Plans
Rose becomes the first woman to lead Balenciaga creatively in its 109-year history, arriving with a reputation built predominantly in menswear. Vogue Business's appointment coverage identifies plans to double women's ready-to-wear by 2030 and accelerate leather goods growth over the same period.
Rose has produced co-ed collections since 2023, giving her experience beyond menswear as she takes responsibility for a broader range of collections and products. Kering's appointment announcement did not specify when her first collection would be presented or detail her plans for individual product categories.
